Designed with slim tree trunks and a tented ceiling, this Lincoln Park room radiates breezy glamour, and so does the food. Fresh from stints at some of Spain’s greatest avant-garde kitchens, young local chef Ryan Poli has the intelligence and restraint to distill cutting-edge concepts into relaxed, market-driven American fare. His pumpkin tart highlighted with date purée, his crisp-skinned striped bass in a smoky consommé of caramelized onion, and cheeky inside-out cheesecake are all major triumphs.
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