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Ortolan

<p>Although he cut his teeth creating formal French cuisine with Joël Robuchon and Michael Rostang, chef Christophe Émé now infuses his own dishes with a playful, adventurous spirit. His seasonal starter of wild-mushroom “cappuccino,” topped with Parmesan foam, is served in a test tube; for his entrée of “Lobster Three Ways,” one of the preparations is an airy-light battered tempura. Even traditionalists who choose Émé's roasted squab with Burgundy sauce and truffled potatoes will be enchanted by the levity of the dining experience: they might be handed mini flashlights with which to read their menus (the lighting is on the dim side in some spots), or see the chef on a ladder picking herbs from the vertical garden along one dining-room wall.</p> <p><strong>Tip:</strong> After dinner, retire for drinks to the soigné back lounge with its deep-pile carpet and flickering gas fire.</p>

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From Food & Wine , JUL 2006

On his tasting menu, he serves a spectacularly tasty and simple dish made from a single egg encased in dough and cooked briefly in hot ash, then topped with vanilla-infused whipped cream and caviar....MORE>>

– Amy Scattergood Independence Days

Last updated July 2006