Ortolan
Although he cut his teeth creating formal French cuisine with Joël Robuchon and Michael Rostang, chef Christophe Émé now infuses his own dishes with a playful, adventurous spirit. His seasonal starter of wild-mushroom “cappuccino,” topped with Parmesan foam, is served in a test tube; for his entrée of “Lobster Three Ways,” one of the preparations is an airy-light battered tempura. Even traditionalists who choose Émé’s roasted squab with Burgundy sauce and truffled potatoes will be enchanted by the levity of the dining experience: they might be handed mini flashlights with which to read their menus (the lighting is on the dim side in some spots), or see the chef on a ladder picking herbs from the vertical garden along one dining-room wall.
Tip: After dinner, retire for drinks to the soigné back lounge with its deep-pile carpet and flickering gas fire.
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