In this cozy neighborhood nook, where the simple blond-wood décor is brightened by mosaic-tile tabletops, chef Ana Sortun blends unusual flavors from Egypt, Turkey, Tunisia, and Armenia to create her own vivid cuisine. Her roasted scallops are paired with a creamy celery-root semolina and tarted up with a caponata of sage and apples; her tamarind-glazed beef is accompanied by a smoky purée of eggplant. The ever-changing five-course vegetarian tasting menu draws raves—of course, it doesn't hurt that Sortun’s husband's organic farm supplies Oleana’s produce.
Tip: In warm weather, ask to be seated in the peaceful back garden; in winter, try and sit near the cast-iron fireplace in front.
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