The accolades for chef Seji Yamamoto's Nihonryori Ryugin are impressive: three Michelin stars and status as one the world's top 50 restaurants as determined by S. Pellegrino's annual awards. A pioneer in the use of molecular gastronomy (also called culinary physics) applied to traditional kaiseki, Yamamoto uses a seasonal approach and reverence for classic Japanese indgredients. The dark wood interior, artisan-created table runners, ceramic wall art, and glass dishes contribute to an atmosphere where each dish is a work of art: the chef has even been known to create edible silk-screen on the plates with squid-ink.
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From the From the May 2008 Food & Wine Go List
Chefs around the world have been making pilgrimages to Seiji Yamamoto’s clubby molecular gastronomy restaurant in the rejuvenated Roppongi district. The chef silkscreens edible newsprint onto a plate using squid ink, and turns liquids into slushy ice with a technique called superfreezing.
We loved: (pike eel) soup with matsutake mushrooms in homemade eel stock.
Insider tip: Dining is prix fixe, but an à la carte menu is available after 8:30 p.m.