Naughty Nuri’s Warung
You’ll either have a memorable or a completely forgotten evening at this unpretentious, rough-and-tumble roadside shack, and which one will depend on how many martinis you drink. No less than Anthony Bourdain has claimed Nuri’s libations to be the best available outside of New York City (and he should know); and the restaurant’s barbecued pork spare ribs, cooked in an outdoor pit surrounded by plank picnic tables, are equally famous among regulars. The owners—Indonesian Nuri Suryatmi and her affable New Yorker husband Brian Aldinger—preside over a nightly crowd of local luminaries, who usually hang out far into the wee hours debating the current state of affairs or “the affairs they are currently debating.” Daily specials are written on the chalkboard, which hangs precariously among local memorabilia—if you’re lucky they’ll include Babi Guleng (traditional whole-roasted pig). If your plan is to steer clear of trouble, try the local microbrew, Storm Ale; it’s cheap and packs far less of a wallop than the martinis.
Tip: Thursday night is Sashimi Night, and always packed with Ubudians. Brian makes a weekly pilgrimage early in the morning to the fish market in Benoa to handpick the freshest tuna for the evening’s festivities.