Locals were astonished when star chef Mathias Dahlgren closed his hugely acclaimed Bon Lloc. Now he has resurfaced at this eponymous new venture in the Grand Hôtel and it is, predictably, a smash. The restaurant has two parts: the posh Matsalen (dining room) and the casual Matbaren (food bar), each with a daily changing menu of modern, ingredient-driven Scandinavian dishes and a Europe-focused wine list.

We loved: Sheep's-milk yogurt with hazelnuts, peach sorbet, honey and olive oil.

Insider tip: The bar in the Matbaren area often has seats when the rest of the restaurant is booked.