David Kinch has one of the great creative minds in American cooking, and for the past three years he’s had vegetables as fresh as his ideas. He doesn’t own Love Apple Farm, in the Santa Cruz Mountains, but controls its production from seed to harvest. That gives him ingredients worthy of his hyper- precise technique, as demonstrated by unique dishes such as flash-fried ravioli stuffed with beet greens and coriander ice in a soup of barely cooked tomatoes. What to Eat: The $155 tasting menu—one of the country’s most exciting dining experiences. What to Drink: A grassy but tense 2005 Pouilly-Fumé Pur Sang from Didier Dageneau.
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