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Chaykhuneh Sonati Azadegan


At the well of Haj Mirza, off Mir-emad Street, near Imam Square
Esfahan

Another tea-and-hookah haunt that's popular with both students and bazari. The food is delicious and cheap, especially the <i>goosht kubideh</i>... More

Hammam-e Vakil


Taleqani Street
Shiraz

Carved out of a historic hammam (bathhouse), with vaulted ceilings and a gurgling fountain, this is the most seductive setting... More

Maykhanechi


76 Lajevardi Alley, off Khayyam Street
Tehran

An old-school joint—just outside the Tehran Bazaar's carpet showroom, it's a pet resort of the dealers— serving fantastic ground lamb... More

Monsoon


Gandhi Shopping Center, corner of Fourth Street and Gandhi Avenue
Tehran

Well-prepared Southeast Asian dishes (prawn curry, tamarind-glazed chicken) draw a young, Western-leaning crowd. Soft lighting, lacquer-topped tables, and walnut-paneled walls... More

Nayeb Park-é Sa-i


1030 Val-ye-Asr Avenue
Tehran

This north Tehran landmark is the place to be for Friday lunch. The well-to-do wait up to two hours for... More

Shater Abbas Restaurant


1 Khakshenasi Street
Shiraz

A convivial local favorite, occupying a beer hall–like cellar. The renowned, house-made <em>taftun</em> breads are baked and seared in a... More

Wooden Bridge Teahouse


Under Pol-é Khajoo, Kamal Esmaeil Street
Esfahan

A classic <em>chaykhuneh</em> under the arches of Khajoo Bridge, catering to a student crowd. Women and men can be seen... More

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