Reservations aren’t accepted at this superb, if slightly self-conscious bistro, which is unmarked by signage of any sort (you’ll find the door beside Hogan’s Pub). Even if you head there early, you’ll likely have to wait; the maître d’ will take your number and give you a call while you wet your whistle at The Market Bar across the road. Despite all the fuss, you’ll likely find your meal at L’Gueuleton well worth the trouble; the dining room is dark, atmospheric, and super-hip; the classic bistro fare like Toulouse sausages, rib-eye with béarnaise, and roast chicken à la Bourguignonne is delicious and perfectly prepared. And it’s all a surprisingly—in fact remarkably—good value.
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