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L’Express

3927 Rue St.-Denis

Montreal , Quebec , Canada http://www.restaurantlexpress.ca/

(514) 845-5333

This landmark French bistro, open since 1980, is still so popular it doesn’t have a sign. The feel is familiar: zinc-topped bar, checkered floor and mirrored walls. The menu is full of superclassic dishes like fish soup with garlicky rouille and hanger steak with shallot butter and fries. Owner Mario Brassoit has compiled an extensive 11,000-bottle cellar of affordable wines, heavy on French labels from Burgundy, Côtes du Rhône and the Loire Valley.