Les 400 Coups
This Old Montreal spot is a collaboration between two veterans of the city’s restaurant scene, Marc-André Jetté and Patrice Demers. Jetté’s modern French dishes all have some element of surprise—the signature coarse—chopped beef tartare, for instance, is topped with mustard ice cream. Demers handles the inventive desserts, including a lime curd with crispy Matcha tea cake and Thai basil. The dining room—with black tin ceilings and lined with large-scale time-lapse photos of Paris’s St.-Germain-des-Prés neighborhood—is one of the city’s most dramatic.