Lebrina sits in an 1840's cottage that has never been gutted to create an open space. Instead, guests dine in homey, intimate, old-world rooms, surrounded by antiques. Lebrina's chef, Scott Minervini, started a modest revolution in 1998 when he insisted that the island's cornucopia of game, seafood, and produce should stay home. Sample a daube of lamb à la cuillère, "to be eaten with a spoon," as the menu commends, and a truncated cone of biting peppery eggplant that lies in a cooling pool of yogurt.
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