At neo-Modernist seafood temple, Laurent Gras proves that he might be the most commanding chef in the country. Think gracious, unstarchy service, a fine-tuned wine list, and a masterful tasting menu that weds Gallic rigor and opulence to Japanese skill with raw fish. Out come delicate morsels of kinmedai (big-eye snapper), lightly smoked over cherrywood and slicked with apricot oil. Then a voluptuous shrimp tartare under a scattering of pansies and edible gold dust. All this in a suave open space that would impress even Mies van der Rohe with its serene, plush geometries and attention to detail. If you’re going to splurge on one grand meal this year, L2O is your place.