It’s worth the trek to the 17th arrondissement for Philippe and Pénélope Tredgeu’s snug Béarnaise bistro, with its lace curtains, banquettes of red moleskin and seasonal menus. (Pierre Hermé is a fan as well.) The sensational three-course, 32-euro dinner offers hearty modern dishes like foie gras-stuffed quail and caramelized pork belly.
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