Kin means to “to eat” in Thai, and this West Village restaurant does serve complex curries, chewy noodle stir-fries, and lettuce leaves stuffed with spicy laab (ground meat). Still, it’s really more Thai-inspired than authentically Thai (partly because nothing is diabolically hot). The original Top Chef champ Harold Dieterle is the chef-owner here, and he has come up with creative dishes like a fried pork and crispy oyster salad served with a flurry of celery leaves, peanuts and a chili-lime vinaigrette. He’s a genius with duck—the duck laab and roasted duck with red curry are incredible—and curry, which are flavored with housemade spice pastes.
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