Kau Kee Restaurant
21 Gough St., NoHo, Central
Hong Kong
From the From the May 2008 Food & Wine Go List
In the early 20th-century, Hong Kong had many more restaurants like this small, steamy noodle shop (known as <em>dai pai dong</em>). Most have been shuttered, since the government views <em>dai pai dong</em> as a reminder of a poorer era in the city's history. Kau Kee—formerly an open-air shop, like most <em>dai pai dong</em>—has since moved indoors, but it's still serving its star dish: beef brisket noodles in clear broth or curry. The mix of Chinese herbs and spices changes with the seasons. Note that the matronly owner tends to rush diners out as soon as they've finished eating.
We loved: Beef brisket noodles in broth.
Insider tip: Kau Kee is usually closed between 7:15 and 8:30 p.m.
Last updated May 2008
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