The most iconic kebab joint in Delhi sits in the shadow of the Jama Masjid mosque and has been owned for nearly a century by a family that claims to have cooked for India’s Mughal emperors 200 years ago. Service can be imperious, but it doesn’t seem to dissuade the restaurant’s legions of regulars. Most come for the meat-focused dishes and rich sauces—and for the perfectly charred kebabs, served on steel plates with onion and green chutney.

We loved: Rogan josh (mutton curry).