Everything about Italian Kitchen is splashy, from the 60-foot white-marble bar to the grand wine cellar to the expensively dressed clientele. The family-style dishes tend to have deluxe flourishes—like the spaghetti with Kobe meatballs and truffle cream—but they’re served in hearty, satisfying portions. The next-door coffee bar Italian to Go offers take-out and lighter versions of the same dishes.

We loved: 40-day dry-aged rib eye.