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At the Historische Weinwirtschaft (“Historical Wine Inn”), a stone-walled restaurant with a wood-beamed ceiling, dogs and children run around freely, popping up every so often at tables, which had been made from an old wooden bed. The place strikes captures the very essence of Heimat, the peculiarly German nostalgia for connection with home and homeland. The notion is reflected in the food—the ingredients of the sauerbraten have been raised a literal stone’s throw away—and the welcoming, laid-back staff are locals.

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Harold Dieterle is a passionate fan of the TV series Game of Thrones.
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