Cuisine from the southern Hunan region is known for its smoke, spice, and rich color. This Jing’an neighborhood restaurant’s reputation precedes it, so it’s often crowded. Once inside the simply decorated often-noisy space, guests settle in to choose a dish off the English menus (and chat with the expat crowd). Stir-fry of all kinds is a common choice; dishes in that style can include clams, or for the more adventurous, frogs. Another popular dish is the Ziran Paigu, ribs layered in cumin.