Husband-and-wife Detroit natives Nick Lessins and Lydia Esparza run their cult pizzeria with erratic hours and no reservations—assuring long lines. Lessins assembles pies to order and then masterfully chars them in his beloved gas oven, which is cranked up to 650°. Some toppings are baked onto the crisp crust. Others, like Mona cheese (a semi-firm cheese from Wisconsin) on a spinach pie, are added when the pizza is just out of the oven.
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