Located in the New York Palace Hotel in a space formerly occupied by Le Cirque, Gilt seeks to reflect the early 20th century opulence of its setting, which once was the home of the wealthy railroad tycoon and investor Henry Villardi. The 52-seat dining is notable for its walls of gilded wood and cathedral ceilings. The menu is full of American classics dressed in luxury with dishes such as bacon and eggs with hackelback caviar, cipollini compote, and creme fraiche, and steamed sea bream with corn custard and puffed sorghum.
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Next door to a commercial sourdough bakery on Gills Alley—an obscure, dead-end alleyway in Melbourne’s business district—sits this rustic, meat-centric restaurant. Anyone familiar with London’s famous St. John Restaurant will recognize similarities: a recycled industrial space, spare aesthetics, a retro sound track and back-to-basics peasant food.
We loved: House-made sausage with cherry tomato and basil compote, semolina and slow-cooked broccoli.
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