The restaurant has the city’s most welcoming service, an organic earth-toned design, and a treasure in its creative, French Laundry–trained chef-owner John Fraser, whose haute-humble menu dazzles even with lamb’s tongue and brussels sprouts. Book ahead for Fraser’s $38 Sunday Suppa, for gnocchi under an inspired short rib–and–foie gras ragù or a winning rendition of meatloaf. The mini red-velvet cupcakes dressed with a loose cream cheese frosting (served pre-dessert) are reason enough to venture uptown.
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