Diverxo
Just weeks after the launch, adventurous epicures were flocking to the drab Tetuán neighborhood to eat at this 20-seat spot, where pink runners on tables are the only visible stab at “décor.” Influenced both by his apprenticeship at London's Hakkasan and by Ferran Adrià's deconstructive cuisine, Chef David Muñoz juggles Iberian, Asian, and Latin American flavors, throwing improbable curveballs that beguile the palate despite the odds. What would happen if a tapa were cross-pollinated with dim sum? A potato tortilla recast as a mini potato filled with a quail egg and onion confit, then given an Asian twist with chile-and–red-bean emulsion and a chaser of Chinese white tea? Giddy diners can't wait for what the 28-year-old wunderkind will come up with next. Scoring a reservation? Suerte! (Good luck!)
From the From the May 2008 Food & Wine Go List
The location isn't central and the gray interiors border on plain, but food-savvy Madrileños love David Muñoz's futuristic cooking. The twenty-something chef, formerly of London's Asian-fusion Hakkasan, specializes in creative dishes like five-spice-braised rabbit with bubbly carrot “air.”
We loved: Deconstructed potato and quail-egg (omelet) wrapped in wonton skin, with chile emulsion.
Last updated May 2008
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