Showing nightly that French food doesn’t have to be a stuffy affair, chef Ken Oringer creates dishes that, while firmly ground in classic technique, put a spin on Gallic formality. Oringer learned from culinary celebrities David Burke and Jean-Georges Vongerichten, but his own creativity shows in dishes like toro tartare mixed with osetra caviar, fresh yuzu, and raw quail egg; and foie gras terrine with a sauce of bitter strawberry, dehydrated honey, and rhubarb. Clio's intimate, 90-seat dining room is on the louche side of formal, with a leopard-print carpet and velvet banquettes—a perfect setting for enjoying the slightly irreverent menu.
Tip: You can wear jeans here, but pair them with your most expensive shoes.
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From Food & Wine, May 2003
“When chef Ken Oringer puts trendy argan oil and carrot emulsion in a calamari ragout, you can trust that they belong there—he's no faddist....” MORE>>
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