When chef Lee Skawinski travels to Liguria each year, he’s not just sourcing recipes. Strains of beans, squash, and lettuce from the area wind up on his five-acre farm in Greene, Maine, then at his Italian restaurant 25 miles away in downtown Portland—proving that farm-to-table cooking can have geographic underpinnings an ocean away. What to Eat: Trenette pasta with local lobster and summer squash, a harmonic convergence of flavors. What to Drink: Bruno Giacosa’s steely 2006 Arneis, one of nearly two dozen Italian wines by the glass.
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