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Chez Doval

Be prepared to wait, and you just might get a seat at this rustic Portuguese grill tucked onto a Plateau side street. (If you happen to have a choice, opt for a table in the more raucous back room.) The soccer on the television and the wandering guitarist who specializes in Seu Jorge–style interpretations of pop songs (“I Will Survive” sounds remarkably good in Portuguese) add to the general air of disorder. But take a look at the grill, packed with hot red coals and laden with steak, octopus, and whole chickens, and you’ll have no doubts. Try your steak topped with a fried egg. Or better yet, order the famous chicken with a side of fries. “Spicy or not?” your waiter will ask. “Spicy,” you’ll answer.

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