For years a beloved-but-hoary haunt of Siasconset’s upper crust, the “Chanti” was given a new lease on life in 2006. That’s when Jeff Worster and Susan Handy, the duo behind Black-Eyed Susan’s, took over—and revitalized both the restaurant’s physical space and its French menu. The three dining rooms, though still genteel enough to dress up for, now have a lighter-hearted, less formal ambience (i.e., families with children and men sans dinner jackets will no longer feel uncomfortable here). The cuisine, too, while still classically French, throws a few welcome curveballs: alongside the steak au poivre and sole meunière are offerings like beer-battered cod beignets, and a lobster-mango salad flavored with Thai spices. A scaled-down menu is offered at lunch—it’s best enjoyed in the garden filled with climbing roses.
Tip: Try one of the many Bordeaux labels from the largely French wine list; wine steward Panos Kakaviatos has special expertise in the region.