Most Romans drink their espresso quickly while standing at the bar, but there's an older tradition of sitting down in a tearoom for coffee or tea. At tables in the gently lit Caffè Doria, on the ground floor of the historic Palazzo Doria Pamphili, locals and tourists sip afternoon caffè and snack on tramezzini (crustless sandwiches), panini and housemade desserts.

We loved: Panini with mozzarella and prosciutto; apple strudel.