Café Moderne owner Frédéric Hubig-Schall recently brought in talented chef Jean-Luc Lefrançois to run the kitchen at his flagship restaurant. Near the old Bourse (stock exchange), the café draws a finance crowd during the day for the 30 euro two-course lunches. At night, it’s quieter, and there are 39 euro five-course dinners—stellar value, considering LeFrançois’s first-rate dishes, like roasted pigeon with chestnuts and Chioggia beets. The wine bar in front—decorated to resemble a wine cave—has a great selection and sells bottles at cost on Monday nights.
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