At this clever steak house/butcher/deli, diners choose a cut of meat (beef, pork, chicken, game birds), tell the waitstaff how they would like it cooked and then wait for it to come out of the kitchen. Alternatively, there’s also a menu, plus daily blackboard specials, such as grilled leg of rabbit. The wine list is especially strong on Bordeaux and Burgundies.

We loved: Roasted gray-leg partridge with bread sauce.