One of the toughest reservations in New York is also one of the most unlikely Michelin three-star establishments anywhere. First, it’s inside a gourmet grocery on an otherwise bland Brooklyn block. Also it’s composed of just 18 seats, arranged around a small kitchen, with a constellation of gleaming copper pots hanging overhead. At the center of this small stage, César Ramirez and his efficient technicians conjure a parade of dishes, upward of 20 courses a night—precise and playful, sumptuous and serious, and above all, memorable.
Congratulations to Mei Lin, winner of Top Chef Season 12.