This unassuming West Village restaurant is easy to miss: there's no sign on the brownstone's door, and you enter through a low-ceilinged basement. Inside, you feel like you're at the intimate dinner party of a dialed-in New Yorker. Blue walls are lined with photographs of the owner's family, and bookshelves stacked with tomes surround two dimly glowing chandeliers. The best dish in the house is the chicken grand-mère with mashed potatoes.
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