Alvin Leung, Jr., the “Demon Chef” (as it says on the restaurant’s sign), has ’80s-style rocker hair, wears sunglasses in the kitchen and likes to tweak centuries-old Chinese dishes and cooking methods with molecular-gastronomy techniques, such as making froths out of caviar and vodka and air-drying pineapple. The main dining room has lamps that resemble glowing chopsticks, and the combination of seductive lighting and very old, very expensive European wines encourages everything from dates to billion-dollar business deals.

We loved: Smoked suckling pig, slow-cooked for 20 hours with Sichuan apple and served with vanilla chutney.

Insider tip: To get face time with Leung, book the 12-seat chef’s table and order one of the two tasting menus.