Breakfasts at this cozy, divey little joint have inspired such cultish devotion that on weekend mornings the line of wannabe diners stretches down the block. Once you're seated at one of the plain wooden tables or at the long granite bar, though, you'll taste what the fuss is all about. The chefs (who take their marching orders from proprietors Jeff Worster and Susan Handy) work right behind the bar to hustle up what are easily the best egg dishes on the island—like huevos rancheros, piled atop fresh corn tortillas and refried black beans and doused with spicy chile sauce; or scrambles made with Portuguese linguica, spinach, garlic, and roasted tomatoes. The thick-sliced sourdough French toast, served with orange-Jack Daniels butter and cinnamon pecans, will make you think you’ve died and gone to carbohydrate heaven.
Tip: Don’t show up past 12:30 p.m.—the café stops serving breakfast at 1. And bring cash; credit cards aren’t accepted.
Congratulations to Mei Lin, winner of Top Chef Season 12.