World > Europe > Norway

Bagatelle

The restaurant Bagatelle announces itself as something different for Oslo. Andreas Gursky's photograph <em>Mayday IV</em> (2000) dominates the dining room. The Michelin-starred spot opened in 1982 but is still the most talked-about restaurant in town. It has something else, too, that is rare in Norway: the sound of boisterous conversation, tableware clinking, and people indulging in the pleasures of food. There is also nothing quiet about chef Eyvind Hellstrøm's cooking. For a first course: a single oyster from Normandy presented in its deep, sculpted shell on a bed of herbed coarse salt, accented with a dash of Japanese shiso sauce and a small pearl of olive oil that perfectly balances the surging brininess of the fleshy shellfish. It is a simple dish, masterfully conceived, that unselfconsciously integrates flavors from Asia and Europe as if they naturally belong in a Norwegian restaurant. I

AS FEATURED IN...

From Travel + Leisure , APR 2009

There is also nothing quiet about chef Eyvind Hellstrøm's cooking. I find that I'm hoping the chef will not fail and that Oslo will reward his audacity. Then the first course arrives...MORE>>

– Sean Rocha Traditional Life in Norway

Last updated April 2009