Alexandros Kardasis, a protégé of Athens star chef and molecular gastronomist Christoforos Peskias (of 48), has been attracting an ever-larger following. He recently moved Athiri from a boondocks working-class neighborhood to trendy Plateon Street. In the kitchen of the century-old cottage that houses the restaurant, Kardasis is creating textural and flavor surprises—for instance, spritzing a froth made from shrimp over juicy marinated anchovies.

We loved: Risotto made with orzo.