Angie Mar Dreams of Ribeye at The Beatrice Inn, Revamped and Opening Today

Courtesy of Beatrice Inn

Posted September 08, 2016

Plus, her three favorite budget-friendly butcher cuts.

“I go to sleep thinking about meat, and I wake up thinking about meat,” muses Angie Mar, the chef and newly minted owner The Beatrice Inn in New York City. “It will always be about meat.”

After a year of mulling over (with Vanity Fair editor Graydon Carter, the Inn's outgoing proprietor) and a month of menu testing (during which the restaurant was closed), Mar is now running the show at the storied chophouse and A-list celeb hangout. But her protein-forward cooking is staying put at The Beatrice Inn, which opens for service again tonight.

“What’s really exciting for me with this iteration of The Beatrice Inn is that I can showcase some dishes I’ve been working on for a long time and having in my back pocket,” Mar says.

Food & Wine: Beatrice Inn

© Dave Katz

On the menu under the Marlow & Sons and Spotted Pig alum, you certainly won't see anything vegetable-forward. That means roast duck flambé, set afire tableside and served with a cherry sauce, branzino en croute and kobe dry-aged in sake, a technique she picked up last year from a Parisian butcher.

A love of all things meaty runs in her family, and with this menu she’s drawing from her father’s kitchen, a place where Sundays were meant for braising down meat and the prize after morning races to the fridge was leftover T-bone steaks from the night before. But the chef isn’t just into the expensive stuff.

“I love ribeyes and the porterhouses, but what’s really cool are the more cost-effective cuts of meat that pack a lot of flavor,” Mar says.

Here she explains her three favorite cuts of beef that won’t break the bank:

Oxtail

“I love the sticky gelatinous quality that it exudes when you braise it,” Mar says of the marrow-filled tail bone. “It’s one of the most beefy tasting cuts on the animal.” Stew it down with pancetta in this recipe.

Shoulder

“The meat-to-fat ratio is really fantastic,” she explains. “An 85-to-15 percent lean-to-fat ratio is the sweet spot.” The chuck from the shoulder and neck is perfect in this brothy, basil-scented beef.

Chuck Flap

“This cut tends to turn into burger grind,” Mar says. “However, it grills beautifully and is tremendously flavorful.” Swap it in for skirt in this paprika butter-slathered preparation.

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