21, Paris
Paul Minchelli first impressed Parisians with his seafood-cooking skills at the iconic Le Duc and then at his eponymous restaurant, which shuttered in 2002. In 2006, he opened this inconspicuous Saint-Germain spot, recognizable only by the number 21 on its black awning. Inside is a black-and-white dining room and a blackboard menu of simple and elegant fish and seafood-centric dishes like the terrific squid risotto.
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