Chef Eli Dahlin of Dame in Portland, Oregon, uses this “backwards” mashed potato technique for entertaining. Cook, cool and rice your potatoes in advance. When it’s time to serve, stir them into the hot butter and cream until thickened. The particularly springy version here is then finished with a puree of bright green peas, mint and lemon zest.Slideshow:More Veal Recipes
Two 4-bone racks of veal (about 3 pounds each)—chine bones removed, fat
trimmed to 1/4 inch and ribs frenched
2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
4 cups thawed frozen peas, plus more for garnish
1 cup lightly packed mint leaves, plus more for garnish
1 tablespoon finely grated lemon zest plus 1 tablespoon fresh lemon
3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons heavy cream
1 stick unsalted butter, cubed
2 cups beef stock or low-sodium broth
1/2 teaspoon unflavored powdered gelatin
1 large shallot, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon tomato paste
How to Make It
Season the veal with salt and transfer to a rimmed baking sheet. Refrigerate uncovered overnight. Bring the meat to room temperature 30 minutes before roasting.
Preheat the oven to 250° and set a rack in a large flameproof roasting pan. Arrange the veal racks back to back in the pan, with the frenched bones crisscrossed and pointing upward. Season with salt and pepper. Roast for about 1½ hours, until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part registers 100°. Increase the oven temperature to 500° and continue to roast for about 15 minutes longer, until the outside is browned and an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part registers 120°. Transfer the racks to a carving board, tent with foil and let rest for 30 minutes. Set the roasting pan aside; do not wipe out.
In a medium saucepan, cover the potatoes with water and bring to a boil. Add 1 tablespoon of salt and simmer over moderate heat until tender, 15 minutes; drain. Using a ricer and working over a medium bowl, rice the potatoes.
In a food processor, pulse the 4 cups of peas with the 1 cup of mint, the lemon zest and 2 tablespoons of the cream until finely chopped. Season with salt and pepper.
In a large, straight-sided skillet, melt the butter in the remaining 3/4 cup of cream. Add the potatoes and cook, stirring constantly, until smooth and heated through, about 3 minutes. Fold in the pea mixture and lemon juice and season with salt and pepper. Cover and keep warm.
In a medium bowl, whisk the stock with the gelatin. Set the roasting pan on the stove over 2 burners. Add the shallot and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, 5 minutes. Stir in the tomato paste and cook until deepened in color, 30 seconds. Add the stock mixture and bring to a boil over moderately high heat, scraping up the browned bits, until thickened slightly, 2 minutes. Strain the sauce through a fine-mesh sieve set over a heatproof medium serving bowl. Skim off any fat and season the pan sauce with salt.
Carve the veal into 8 chops and transfer to a platter. Drizzle the meat with some of the pan sauce. Transfer the mashed potatoes to a serving bowl and garnish with more peas and mint leaves. Serve the veal with the mashed potatoes, passing the remaining sauce at the table.
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