Set the roasting pan over moderate heat and add the wine. Cook, stirring to release the browned bits in the pan, until the wine is reduced by half, about 2 minutes. Scrape the liquid into the pot and add the celery, onion, carrot, thyme and 8 quarts of water. Bring to a simmer, skimming off any foam as it rises to the surface. Cook over moderate heat until reduced by half, about 2 hours. Strain the stock into a large heatproof bowl and cool to room temperature.