2 medium Granny Smith apples, cut into small wedges, plus 1/4 cup julienned
Granny Smith apple tossed with 1/2 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
4 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard
7 ounces pea shoots or well-trimmed watercress sprigs
1 large garlic clove, minced
1 ounce caviar, preferably Beluga
1/4 cup julienned Red Delicious apple tossed with 1/2 teaspoon fresh lemon
1/4 cup daikon or radish sprouts
Soak the wood chips in warm water to cover for 20 minutes, then drain. Light a small charcoal fire or prepare a stovetop smoker following the manufacturer's instructions. Add the chips and heat until smoking. Season the salmon fillets on both sides with salt and white pepper and set them on the rack. Cover and smoke for about 10 minutes, or until fragrant but still very rare in the center. Transfer the salmon to a plate.
Heat a large nonstick skillet. Add the salmon and cook over moderately high heat until browned and barely cooked through, about 2 minutes per side. Remove from the heat and keep warm.
Meanwhile, juice the Granny Smith apple wedges. In a small saucepan, bring the apple juice to a boil. Over low heat, whisk in 4 tablespoons of the butter and the mustard until incorporated. Strain the apple broth through a fine sieve, return it to the saucepan and season with salt and pepper.
Melt the remaining 1/2 tablespoon of butter in a large skillet. Add the pea shoots and garlic and cook over high heat, tossing, until wilted, about 4 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and transfer to 4 shallow soup plates.
Arrange the salmon on the pea shoots and top each fillet with a small dollop of caviar. Scatter the julienned apples all around and garnish with the daikon sprouts. Whisk the apple broth over high heat until foamy, then pour it around the salmon and serve.
A Gewürztraminer has the character and acidity to match the salmon and the fruity apple broth.