Chef Stephanie Izard is hooked on these plump, chewy silver needle noodles that she discovered in China while researching for her Chicago restaurant Duck Duck Goat. Here, she makes a spicy, squash soup with shrimp stock and sambal and stirs in the noodles right before serving. If you would like to make this soup vegetarian, feel free to swap vegetable broth for the shrimp stock.
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In a large enameled cast iron casserole, heat some canola oil. Cook the onion, apple and garlic and a generous pinch of salt over moderate heat until almost tender. Add with shaoxing, scraping up any brown bits on the bottom of the pan. Add the stock, squash and sambal and simmer for 20 min. Transfer to a blender and puree in batches with the brown butter and the soy sauce. Return to the casserole and add the silver needle noodles. Simmer over low heat until heated through and then transfer to bowls and serve.