If you want to use fresh spinach, remove the stems and then wash the leaves well and shred them. Cook the spinach in one tablespoon of the bacon fat over moderately high heat until just wilted, about two minutes. Squeeze out the excess liquid and then combine with the other ingredients, as in Step 2. Since fresh spinach cooks down to such a small amount, you will need about three pounds to equal the amount of frozen spinach used here. If you don't mind having less spinach on your pizza, one pound per shell is fine.
This tomato-less pie needs a soft, fruity red with some tannin to balance the richness of the cheese. Choose a basic Australian Shiraz for its plum and cassis flavors with hints of black pepper.