- One 16- to 18-pound smoked ham on the bone, with skin (see Note)
- One 4 1/2-pound pineapple—peeled, halved crosswise and cored, 1 half sliced crosswise 1/3 inch thick and 1 half coarsely chopped
- 2 medium onions, thinly sliced
- 2 bay leaves
- 2 cups dry Marsala
- 2 cups dry Riesling
- 2 cups water
- 1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
- 1/4 cup whole-grain mustard
- 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
- 2 large jalapeños, sliced crosswise 1/8 inch thick, seeds discarded
- Preheat the oven to 450°. Cut off the ham skin, leaving a thick layer of fat. Lightly score the fat in a diamond pattern. Arrange the pineapple rings in a roasting pan. Add the onions, bay leaves, Marsala, Riesling, water and nutmeg. Set the ham on top, fat side up. Cover with parchment paper, then tightly cover the pan with foil. Bake the ham for 40 minutes. Turn the oven to 325° and bake for 2 hours and 30 minutes longer, or until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part without touching the bone registers 120°.
- Meanwhile, in a food processor, puree the chopped pineapple, then blend with the mustards.
- Remove the ham from the oven. Turn the oven to 400°. Spread the pineapple mustard all over the ham and arrange the jalapeño rings on top in even rows. Bake the ham for 15 minutes, or until nicely browned. Transfer to a cutting board and let rest for 20 minutes.
- Meanwhile, strain the pan juices into a saucepan and boil over high heat until reduced to 3 cups, about 20 minutes. Skim off the fat and pour the juices into a warmed gravy boat. Carve the ham in thin slices and serve with the pan juices.
Rosés or light reds like Beaujolais are a natural with ham: These wines have the fruit to balance the ham's saltiness and the tannins to cut its richness; plus, because they're lighter in body, they won't overwhelm the meat's relatively mild flavor. Beaujolais can also handle the flamboyant mix of sweet, hot and sharp tastes of the ham glaze here. Look for a bottling (preferably not a Nouveau) with the juiciness and substance to stand up to the jalapeño and mustard.