For this Thai classic, Andy Ricker uses a mortar and pestle to pound crunchy raw green beans with a piquant mix of chiles, garlic, fish sauce and lime juice. He then tosses in crisp strips of unripened papaya.
How to Make the Ultimate Umami-Bomb Vegetarian Demi-Glace
6 medium dried shrimp
One 1 1/2-pound green papaya
2 small Thai chiles, coarsely chopped
1 large garlic clove, halved
1/4 cup plus 3 tablespoons palm sugar or light brown sugar
1/4 pound thin green beans, halved crosswise
3 tablespoons fresh lime juice
2 tablespoons Asian fish sauce
2 dozen cherry tomatoes, halved
1/3 cup coarsely chopped roasted, salted peanuts
In a small bowl, cover the dried shrimp with hot water. Let stand for 5 minutes, then drain. Cut the shrimp into thirds.
Using a serrated knife, halve the papaya crosswise and peel the skin. Scrape out the seeds. Using a mandoline, julienne the flesh (you should have about 6 cups).
In a large mortar, pound the chiles to a coarse paste with the garlic. Add the sugar and shrimp and pound until blended. Add the green beans and lightly pound them. Pour in the lime juice and fish sauce and stir to dissolve the sugar. Add the tomatoes and lightly pound them. Scrape the mixture into a large bowl. Add the papaya and peanuts, toss well and serve.