Spicy Chickpeas

In a large skillet, heat the oil. Add the onion and cook over moderately high heat, stirring, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add the coriander, cumin, cayenne and turmeric and cook, stirring, about 1 minute. Add the chickpeas, peppercorns and salt and cook over moderate heat until warmed through. Remove from the heat and stir in the lemon juice and cilantro. Transfer to a bowl and serve warm or at room temperature.