3 cups fresh red wine must or young fruity red wine, such as Beaujolais or
1 pound fresh figs, stemmed and halved
2 Bartlett pears—peeled, cored and coarsely chopped
2 Granny Smith apples—peeled, cored and coarsely chopped
1 quince—peeled, cored and coarsely chopped
1/2 cup sugar, plus more to taste
Three 3-by-1/2-inch strips orange zest
1 bay leaf, preferably fresh
One 2-inch cinnamon stick
1/2 cup roasted hazelnuts, coarsely chopped
In a large, nonreactive saucepan, combine the red wine must with the figs, pears, apples, quince, sugar, orange zest, bay leaf and cinnamon stick. Bring to a boil over moderately high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar.
Reduce the heat to moderate and simmer the <em>côgnà</em>, stirring often, until very thick and reduced to 4 cups, about 1 hour and 10 minutes. If the <em>côgnà</em> is not sweet enough, you can add up to another 1/2 cup of sugar. Discard the orange zest, bay leaves and cinnamon stick. Stir in the hazelnuts and simmer for 10 minutes longer. Let the <em>côgnà</em> cool to room temperature before serving.