- 1 pound spaghetti
- 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
- 1/2 pound ramps or medium scallions, thinly sliced
- Kosher salt
- Freshly ground pepper
- 2 or 3 Thai chiles, thinly sliced
- 2 dried red chiles such as Calabrian, crumbled
- 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
- 1/4 cup freshly grated Pecorino Romano cheese
- 1/4 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, plus more for serving
- In a large saucepan of salted boiling water, cook the spaghetti until al dente. Drain the pasta, reserving 1 cup of the cooking water.
- Meanwhile, in a large skillet, melt the butter in the olive oil. Add the ramps and a generous pinch each of salt and pepper and cook over moderately high heat, stirring, until just wilted, about 3 minutes. Add the fresh and dried chiles and cook for 30 seconds. Stir in the lemon juice and the 1/4 cup each of pecorino and Parmigiano cheese.
- Add the spaghetti to the skillet along with the reserved cooking water and cook over moderately low heat, tossing, until the spaghetti is thoroughly coated, 3 to 5 minutes; season with salt and pepper. Transfer to shallow bowls and serve right away, passing additional Parmigiano at the table.
Zesty, full-bodied Sicilian white.