Be picky about the beets you buy: "They're as delicate as corn," Müller says. He likes to mix red, white and gold varieties, dressing them separately so that their colors don't blend, and he prefers them small. When the leaves are tender and fresh, they add a lovely acidic dimension to the salad.
How to Make the Ultimate Umami-Bomb Vegetarian Demi-Glace
2 cups kosher salt
12 small beets (about 2 pounds), tops trimmed, 12 small leaves reserved and minced
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon drained capers
1 tablespoon minced chives
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Preheat the oven to 425°. Spread the salt in a small roasting pan and set the beets on top. Transfer to the oven and roast for about 50 minutes, or until the beets are tender when pierced. Let cool for 20 minutes.
While the beets are still warm, peel and cut them into wedges. In a medium bowl, combine the beets and their leaves with the olive oil, vinegar, capers and chives. Season with salt and pepper, toss and serve.